Post-war, post-industrial and post-communist, Poland has certainly had its fair share of struggles and identity issues. But the past decade has seen a land best known for its industrial powerhouses turning instead to the production of cultural capital.

For uncube issue No. 31: Poland, we hitched a ride east on the Berlin-Warszawa-Express to a place where grassroots activists are challenging mainstream politics and developers are vying with EU funding to create a whole new architectural landscape – one on which opinion in the country is sharply divided.

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